Jenny’s Blog: My expedition trip to East Greenland

I'd been thinking about East Greenland for a while. Somewhere genuinely remote, properly wild, completely different to anywhere I'd been before. With so much news recently about Greenland's future, I'm even more grateful I went when I did - and I hope this incredible place remains independent, respected and protected for generations to come.

When I finally booked it, I wasn't entirely sure what to expect - but I knew it wouldn't be ordinary.

We travelled by expedition ship through some pretty rolling Arctic seas before arriving in Scoresby Sund, the largest fjord system on Earth. The moment we entered the fjord, everything changed. It went quiet. The scale of it was immense - mountains, ice, silence. Completely stunning.

Before our first landing, we were kitted out with HX windproof jackets and muck boots, then given a thorough Zodiac safety briefing and an introduction to Greenlandic culture. That first evening, as the Arctic light softened across the fjord, I realised just how far from everyday life I'd travelled.

Exploring by Zodiac

Each day we went ashore twice by Zodiac, landing on remote shorelines where the landscapes felt almost unreal. Towering mountains, ancient glaciers and ice in every shade of blue you can imagine.

No two landings were the same. The colours shifted constantly with the light - deep steel greys, glowing golds, sudden flashes of turquoise when the sun caught the ice.

One evening while dining aboard MS Fram, we sailed past a glacier glowing in the last light as the sky turned pink and gold. Later that night, the Northern Lights appeared - at first a soft green shimmer, then flowing ribbons across the Arctic sky. One of those moments you don't forget.

Life on board MS Fram

Life on board struck a good balance between comfort and adventure. Hearty breakfasts, then out on Zodiac cruises. Once the expedition team confirmed it was safe to land (no polar bears lurking!), we could choose how to explore - guided hikes if you wanted something more challenging, or wandering at your own pace within the clearly marked boundaries set by the crew.

After lunch, we'd head out again for another landing or scenic cruise. For the brave, there was even a polar plunge into icy Arctic waters. I happily cheered my husband from the sidelines.

Back on board, our muck boots went through their own little "car wash" - a brilliantly practical (and surprisingly fun) detail to ensure no seeds or debris were carried from one landing site to the next.

Afternoons were spent wildlife watching on deck or listening to talks from the expedition team - experts in glaciology, wildlife and Arctic history. It added real depth to everything we were seeing. Evenings were relaxed and social - cocktails, beautiful meals featuring local ingredients and endless views from the deck.

We didn't need entertainment. The Arctic provided its own, including three unforgettable nights of aurora sightings.

East Greenland National Park

As we sailed north toward East Greenland National Park (the largest national park on Earth), the scale of the wilderness became even more apparent. After a stretch of open sea, we woke to landscapes so vast and untouched they felt like the edge of the world.

During a hike at Antarctic Havn, we spotted fresh polar bear paw prints in the sand. Thrilling and humbling - a reminder that this land truly belongs to the wild.

Another highlight was cruising close to Kejser Franz Joseph Glacier. From a distance it seemed modest, but up close it was astonishing - a towering wall of blue ice stretching kilometres wide and deep into the Greenland Ice Sheet. The silence was immense, broken only by the thunderous sound of calving ice.

Ittoqqortoormiit

After nearly two weeks at sea, we arrived in Ittoqqortoormiit, one of the most remote settlements on Earth. Around 350 people live here. After days surrounded only by ice and mountains, it felt surreal to walk through a real community again.

Brightly coloured houses lined the shoreline, children played nearby and teams of Greenlandic huskies filled the air with their howls. I visited the local supermarket - tiny but fascinating, stocking everything from food essentials to hunting equipment.

The community still lives closely connected to the land and sea, relying on hunting, fishing, and supply ships during the short summer months. A humbling reminder of how resilient life must be in such an extreme environment.

The journey back

On our journey back to Reykjavík, we were treated to a final gift - a pod of orcas gliding alongside the ship. Wildlife sightings throughout the trip had been rare but unforgettable: musk oxen, Arctic hares, foxes, snowy owls and countless seabirds.

For a first-time expedition traveller, the experience was eye-opening. I learned about glaciers, Arctic ecosystems, and the delicate balance that exists at the top of the world. But more than that, I came away with a deep sense of connection - to nature, to the planet, and to the importance of protecting places like this.

East Greenland is one of the most untouched, beautiful places on Earth – let’s hope it remains so. A part of me will always remain there, among the ice, silence and vast Arctic skies.

Why expedition cruising works

If you're looking for an adventure somewhere remote, meaningful and genuinely unforgettable, expedition cruising could be perfect for you.

It's also an excellent choice for solo travellers - there were many on MS Fram. You get the perfect balance of independence and companionship. From the moment you step on board, you're part of a small, like-minded group. Shared experiences naturally spark conversation - whether that's spotting wildlife from the deck or sharing stories over dinner. There's no pressure to be "part of a group" if you don't want to be, yet you're never truly alone, with expert expedition teams guiding every landing and activity.

For travellers seeking adventure, safety and meaningful connection in extraordinary places, expedition cruising offers a uniquely rewarding way to explore the world.

I help clients discover journeys like this one, carefully matched to their interests, comfort levels and sense of adventure. When you're ready, I'd love to help you plan your own once-in-a-lifetime experience.