I'd been thinking about East Greenland for a while. Somewhere genuinely remote, properly wild, completely different to anywhere I'd been before. With so much news recently about Greenland's future, I'm even more grateful I went when I did - and I hope this incredible place remains independent, respected and protected for generations to come. When I finally booked it, I wasn't entirely sure what to expect - but I knew it wouldn't be ordinary. We travelled by expedition ship th